Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Rock Leader Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process

Leader Workbooks

• Rock Leader Workbook
• Core Knowledge Workbook (You only need to complete this once. If you already hold a Registered NZOIA Leader, 1 or 2 qualification you do not need to complete this workbook).

It is optional for NZOIA Assessment Centre tertiary students to complete the workbooks as the content may be assessed as part of the tertiary course curriculum.  Please follow the requirements of your tutor/Assessor.

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 6: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 7: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 8: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 10: Demonstrate effective safety management

Organise Equipment

Liaise with other candidates to organise equipment required for the course.

The following will likely be covered depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Questions and answers
• Equipment check

Personal Skills

• Equipment
• Anchors and top rope set up
• Top rope climbing on grade 14 or above
• Belaying
• Rescue skills (jammed belay device, stuck climber etc.)
• Cultural, natural and environmental knowledge

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 2: Construct a top rope climbing system
• Section 3: Demonstrate safe and efficient climbing techniques
• Section 4: Demonstrate safe belaying technique
• Section 5: Demonstrate rock climbing rescue skills
• Section 6: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 7: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 8: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices

Client day briefing and planning

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock Leader Syllabus:

• Section 6: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 10: Demonstrate effective safety management
• Section 11: Plan and prepare an introductory rock climbing experience

The following will likely be covered depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Lead, manage and instruct a group for an introductory rock climbing session

• Site set up
• Client briefing and gear outfitting
• Group management and leadership
• Safety management
• Instruction of introductory rock climbing skills
• Environmental, natural and cultural history of the area

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 2: Construct a top rope climbing system
• Section 6: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 7: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 8: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 9: Lead and manage a group for an introductory rock climbing session
• Section 10: Demonstrate effective safety management
• Section 12: Instruct a group in the rock climbing skills required for a positive introductory experience

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result

Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Abseil Leader Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process

Leader Workbooks

• Abseil Leader Workbook
• Core Knowledge Workbook (You only need to complete this once. If you already hold a Registered NZOIA Leader, 1 or 2 qualification you do not need to complete this workbook).

It is optional for NZOIA Assessment Centre tertiary students to complete the workbooks as the content may be assessed as part of the tertiary course curriculum.  Please follow the requirements of your tutor/Assessor.

Applicable components from the NZOIA Abseil Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of abseil equipment and clothing
• Section 5: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 6: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 9: Demonstrate effective safety management

Organise Equipment

Liaise with other candidates to organise equipment required for the course.

The following will likely be covered depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Questions and answers
• Equipment check

Personal Skills

• Equipment
• Anchors and client abseil system set up
• Abseil technique
• Rescue skills (jammed abseil device, lowering client on safety rope, client freezes etc.)
• Cultural, natural and environmental knowledge

Applicable components from the NZOIA Abseil Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of abseil equipment and clothing
• Section 2: Construct a client abseil system
• Section 3: Demonstrate safe and efficient abseil technique
• Section 4: Demonstrate abseil rescue skills
• Section 5: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 6: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices

Client day briefing and planning

Applicable components from the NZOIA Abseil Leader Syllabus:

• Section 5: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 9: Demonstrate effective safety management
• Section 10: Plan and prepare an introductory abseil experience

The following will likely be covered on depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Lead, manage and instruct a group for an introductory abseil session:

• Site set up
• Client briefing and gear outfitting
• Group management and leadership
• Safety management
• Instruction of introductory abseiling skills
• Environmental, natural and cultural history of the area

Applicable components from the NZOIA Abseil Leader Syllabus:

• Section 1: Demonstrate and/or describe the care and correct use of abseil equipment and clothing
• Section 2: Construct a client abseil system
• Section 5: Obtain a weather forecast and apply weather interpretation skills
• Section 6: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of areas visited
• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 8: Lead and manage a group for an introductory abseil session
• Section 9: Demonstrate effective safety management
• Section 11: Instruct a group in the abseil skills required for a positive introductory experience

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result

Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Rock 1 Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process

Presentation

Prepare an interactive, engaging and informative presentation to be delivered to fellow candidates on your allocated topic. It should be 15 minutes in duration and delivered without the use of a computer (unless you provide your own):

Assigned topic examples:

• Geology: rock types around NZ crags
• Access considerations in rock climbing
• Assessing and retiring climbing equipment
• History of rock climbing
• Te Taiao – Leave No Trace principles in rock climbing
• Belay device selection
• A Passion for rock – how to design and facilitate a rock session where participates connect to rock climbing
• How NZOIA rock instructors teach movement

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 1 Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe rock climbing history and ethics
• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 9: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 10: Demonstrate and/or describe cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of climbing sites visited
• Section 14: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Organise Equipment

Liaise with other candidates to organise equipment required for the course.

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Theoretical knowledge: multichoice quiz
• Presentations
• Questions and answers

 Quiz

Includes:

• Culture & Environment
• Flora, fauna and geology
• Safety
• Equipment
• Discipline Specific Knowledge

 Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 1 Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe rock climbing history and ethics
• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 9: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 10:Demonstrate and/or describe cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of climbing sites visited

The following will likely be covered on Day 1, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Sport climbing

• Lead climb grade 15
• Create 2-point anchor on bolts
• Lead belaying
• Demonstrate clear communication
• Top Rope rescue
• Clean anchor
• Self-protected abseil

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 1 Syllabus:

• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 4: Construct a top rope climbing system
• Section 6: Demonstrate safe and efficient personal climbing techniques
• Section 7: Demonstrate safe and efficient belaying technique
• Section 8: Demonstrate rock climbing and abseiling rescue skills

Placed protection and abseil

• Place protection anchor at ground level
• Construct client top-rope (20 min) with personal safety
• Construct client abseil (30 min) with personal safety
• Abseil recues (jammed abseil device and/or ledge rescue)

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 1 Syllabus:

• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 3: Construct a variety of safe and efficient anchor systems
• Section 4: Construct a top rope climbing system
• Section 5: Construct a client abseil system
• Section 8: Demonstrate rock climbing and abseiling rescue skills
• Section 9: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices

Presentations continued

The following will likely be covered on Day 2, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Run an introductory rock climbing and abseil session, including but not limited to:

• Bouldering activities
• Top Roping
• Climbing movement
• Belaying
• Communication
• Client abseils

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 1 Syllabus:

• Section 11: Plan and prepare a top rope climbing and abseiling experience
• Section 12: Lead and manage a group during a top rope climbing and abseiling session
• Section 13: Apply effective safety management
• Section 14: Instruct the rock climbing skills required for a positive, educational and safe experience
• Section 15: Instruct the abseiling skills required for a positive, educational and safe experience
• Section 16: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result

Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Sport Climbing Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process

Presentation

Prepare an interactive, engaging and informative presentation to be delivered to fellow candidates on your allocated topic. It should be 10 minutes in duration and be delivered without the use of a computer (unless you provide your own):

Assigned topic examples:

• Geology: rock types around NZ crags
• Access considerations in rock climbing
• Te taiao – Leave No Trace principles in rock climbing
• Assessing and retiring climbing equipment
• Belay device selection
• A Passion for rock – how to design and facilitate a rock session where participates connect to the rock climbing
• A history of sport climbing
• How NZOIA sport climbing instructors teach movement

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe sport climbing history and ethics
• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of sport climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 8: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 9: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and information about climbing sites visited
• Section 14: Prepare and deliver a teaching session

Organise Equipment

Liaise with other candidates to organise equipment required for the course.

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Theoretical knowledge: multichoice quiz
• Questions and answers

The following will likely be covered on Day 1, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Personal Skills

• Lead climbing: lower off, transition to top rope, transition to abseil
• Belaying: lead and top rope
• Anchor construction
• Rescue scenarios
• Culture and environment
• Presentations

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Syllabus:

• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of sport climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 3: Construct safe and efficient anchor systems
• Section 4: Construct a top rope climbing system
• Section 5: Demonstrate safe and efficient climbing techniques
• Section 6: Demonstrate safe and efficient belaying technique
• Section 7: Demonstrate rescue skills

Client Day Planning session

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Syllabus:

• Section 10: Plan and prepare a top rope climbing and lead climbing session

The following will likely be covered on Day 2, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Lead and manage a group during a top rope and lead climbing session, including but not limited to:

• Top Roping
• Climbing movement
• Belaying / safety checks
• Lead climbing progression: clipping, lead belaying with different devices, leading to lower off and leading to clean climb
• Communication
• Client abseils

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Syllabus:

• Section 8: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 9: Demonstrate cultural and environmental knowledge and information about climbing sites visited
• Section 10: Plan and prepare a top rope climbing and lead climbing session
• Section 11: Lead and manage a group during a top rope climbing and lead climbing session
• Section 12: Apply effective safety management
• Section 13: Instruct the sport climbing skills required for a positive, educational and safe experience
• Section 14: Prepare and deliver a teaching session

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result

Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Sport Climbing Endorsement Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process

Assignment

Plan and prepare a lead climbing experience. Prepare a written risk management or activity management plan which identifies any risks of the activity and the risk management strategies to minimise or avoid the impact of these identified risks.

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Endorsement Syllabus:

• Section 5: Plan and prepare a lead climbing experience

Organise Equipment

Liaise with other candidates to organise equipment required for the course.

The following will likely be covered, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Questions and answers

Personal Skills

• Lead a grade 16 route without falling or hanging
• Lead a climb and leave it set up for top roping
• Climbing technique
• Lead belaying
• Clearing a sport route set up for top roping
• Knowledge of sport climbing history and ethics

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Endorsement Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe sport climbing history and ethics
• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of sport climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 3: Demonstrate safe and efficient lead climbing techniques
• Section 4: Demonstrate safe and efficient lead belaying technique

Client Session

Lead and manage a group during a ½ day introductory session on lead climbing.

Provide clients with effective instruction, including but not limited to:

• Safety
• Lead belaying
• Climbing movement and techniques required to lead climb safely
• Clipping techniques on fixed protection
• Lead falls
• Safe and efficient transitions from climbing to descending at the top of the climb e.g. lowering, abseiling
• Abseiling with self-protection

Applicable components from the NZOIA Sport Climbing Endorsement Syllabus:

• Section 6: Lead and manage a group during a lead climbing session
• Section 7: Apply effective safety management
• Section 8: Instruct the sport climbing skills required for a positive, educational and safe experience

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result

Pre-course Information

Read and be familiar with the:

• Rock 2 Scope & Syllabus
• Assessments – What to expect 
• Assessments – Feedback & Results Process 

The NZOIA 2 candidate is expected to demonstrate any of the competencies outlined in the NZOIA 1 Syllabus.

Presentation

1. There will be presentation components during the assessment. At some stage during the assessment, candidates will be required to give an impromptu talk on some aspects of the syllabus e.g. history and ethics of climbing, climbing areas in NZ, care and use of your gear, modern climbing techniques, etc

2. You will be asked during the assessment to give a 15-minute presentation on one of the five topics listed below. These will be drawn out of a hat at the assessment and could be any of the following, so come prepared:

• Analyse a traditional climbing accident to draw out what can be learnt from it
• Analyse a sport climbing accident to draw out what can be learnt from it
• Advice to a novice climber of a progression of crags in New Zealand to develop their skills toward multi-pitch traditional climbing, including access considerations at each venue
• A geological journey through the Island of your assessment crags (North or South Island)
• Describe how to minimise the environmental impact of modern climbing, short and long term
• Local iwi, their history, legends, present day, how this relates to rock climbing

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe rock climbing history and ethics
• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 8: Demonstrate and/or describe cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of climbing sites visited
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Introductory Session

• Welcome, introductions and outline of course
• Assessment process
• Safety management
• Overall logistics
• Feedback and results process
• Questions and answers

The following will likely be covered on Day 1, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Personal Skills and Rescue Scenarios

• Equipment
• Placed and fixed protection
• Guide two people up a multi-pitch climb
• Guide two people down a multi-pitch abseil
• Leading a grade 20 on placed protection
• Rescue scenarios

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 2: Demonstrate the care and correct use of rock climbing equipment and clothing
• Section 3: Construct a variety of safe and efficient anchor systems
• Section 4: Construct belay and abseil systems suitable for multi-pitch climbing
• Section 5: Demonstrate safe and efficient personal climbing and belaying
• Section 6: Demonstrate safe and efficient rescue skills
• Section 9: Instruct, guide and manage clients during lead climbing and multi-pitch climbing sessions

Client Day planning session

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 10: Apply effective safety management
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

The following will likely be covered on Day 2, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Morning - Personal Skills

• Personal skills continued
• History, flora and fauna, and crag geology

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 1: Describe rock climbing history and ethics
• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 10: Apply effective safety management
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Prepare for Clients

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 10: Apply effective safety management
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Afternoon - Client ½ day

• Culture and environment
• Interpretation of crags
• Climbing and descending multi-pitch routes
• Safety management

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 7: Role model and promote accepted environmental practices
• Section 8: Demonstrate and/or describe cultural and environmental knowledge and interpretation of climbing sites visited
• Section 9: Instruct, guide and manage clients during lead climbing and multi-pitch climbing sessions
• Section 10: Apply effective safety management
• Section 11: Instruct safe, well managed and positive learning experiences for clients
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

The following will likely be covered on Day 3, depending on environmental conditions and other considerations at the time of the assessment:

Client Day

Continue working toward the aims of the model clients. Learning outcomes could include;

• Teaching trad gear and trad lead climbing
• Multi-pitch climbing systems
• Pre Rock 1 training material

Applicable components from the NZOIA Rock 2 Syllabus:

• Section 9: Instruct, guide and manage clients during lead climbing and multi-pitch climbing sessions
• Section 10: Apply effective safety management
• Section 11: Instruct safe, well managed and positive learning experiences for clients
• Section 12: Prepare and deliver teaching sessions

Debrief with the Assessor and Assessment result